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  #11  
Old 12-13-2016, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Gentleman

Thank you all for getting back on this with me. TNW made this gun. I am extremely upset with them for the entire process. To make a very long story short, they stole parts from me and put in M2 parts and the gun didn't even work when i got it. since i had it sitting for almost a year without firing it they would not correct their issues with manufacture. i would never purchase anything from them again.

so i will take some picture of the sear tonight and repost. This was the first time firing it since it was built. I have had it about 2 years but it was a display in my gun room. i did not have a good area to shoot it until now. so to my dismay it does not work properly out of the box so to speak. The parts were mostly used but the bolt and most internal parts were new. I checked the firing pin and spring and they seam to be fine. I think it may be the sear spring or dis connector area. I am mostly a 1919 and M240 guy so 50s are not my strong area but i do understand the mechanics enough. I will get some more images soon. Thanks again for the help on this gents.
I built mine using KMP trigger and sear so I'm not familiar with TNW's set up. I have a TNW 1919 that works just fine, and there are many TNW 50's out there that work. So be for we condemn the set up and recommend changing over to KMP let's see some pict's and see if we can figure out whats wrong I know it sucks to have a big dollar gun that doesn't work and the builder won't fix it. I't shouldn't matter if it's 2 months, 2years or 10 years they should stand behind there work.
Ok with pictures list what parts are M2 and what parts are M3
Greg
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2016, 06:12 PM
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Well our speculations, so far, seem to be on the right track. Pictures will be good.
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2016, 06:30 PM
AndrewT AndrewT is offline
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Karl, i think your right with scrapping parts out.
when i tore down the bolt i noticed that the sear is weak and so is the spring under it. it is very easy to move. also the spring on top of the trigger bar inside the receiver is just bent over and not in a socket or connected to antyhing. I am not sure i this is correct or not but it doesn't look right. I love KMP stuff as i build 1919's often and i only use their products. I did look into some of their 50 parts. i will definitely be switching out the sear and spring for their version.
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2016, 11:56 PM
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For sure, that spring is wrong. Just fixing that may have your weapon running again.

If I remember, its a tricky little SOB to mount. Pull the trigger bar pin, get everything in place, push on the bar till the pin can be re installed. Also, at least on my build, a pin in the top plate locates this spring. Pretty sure this pin serves as a stop to prevent the trigger bar from hitting the fast moving bolt.


FWIW, KMP is the exact opposite of TNW. Tom at KMP stands behind his parts for life. And he will get on the phone and talk you through any issues.

If you do bite the bullet and switch to KMP, Ed at central Wisconsin Armory has had custom M3 semi sear springs manufactured. I've not seen what TNW does here, but the correct spring will have a larger diameter on the bolt side.
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  #15  
Old 12-14-2016, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Karl, i think your right with scrapping parts out.
when i tore down the bolt i noticed that the sear is weak and so is the spring under it. it is very easy to move. also the spring on top of the trigger bar inside the receiver is just bent over and not in a socket or connected to antyhing. I am not sure i this is correct or not but it doesn't look right. I love KMP stuff as i build 1919's often and i only use their products. I did look into some of their 50 parts. i will definitely be switching out the sear and spring for their version.
That trigger spring should have a locator to keep it in place as Karl says. But I really doubt that is your problem need to see the sear out, the firing pin and sear mating surface and the trigger bar/ disconnecter.
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  #16  
Old 12-14-2016, 07:30 AM
AndrewT AndrewT is offline
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Gents, you are more than helpful. thank you. I will take the guts out of the bolt and get some more detailed pictures. I am going to get the KMP components and set fire the anything TNW.
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2016, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
... I am going to get the KMP components and set fire the anything TNW.
Wise move, this weapon deserves the best.
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  #18  
Old 12-14-2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl_T View Post
Wise move, this weapon deserves the best.
Hey Karl... Do you think that is an easy swap... I wonder how close the two systems are to one another... Just considering the work that has to be done in the top plate... ?
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  #19  
Old 12-14-2016, 02:40 PM
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Sorry, I'm no help at all here. I have never seen the TNW parts for the 50. I did fart around with one on my FN38 and have it running "good enough" for a safe queen. I went and designed my own semi trigger for my stable of FN30s. Its based on KMPs 50 cal idea.

I'll bet KMP can send you a guide for changing over. I'd sure like to know what Tom says.
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  #20  
Old 12-14-2016, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kali Komrade View Post
Hey Karl... Do you think that is an easy swap... I wonder how close the two systems are to one another... Just considering the work that has to be done in the top plate... ?
And I wonder about the bolt/sear work. Might need a new bolt for the KMP sear to fit depending on the mods for the TNW. I would want to find out what is wrong first before changing over to KMP. Not saying that I wouldn't change it, just that I would like to find out what's wrong first.
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